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At
one time the mere mention of the country Lebanon would conjure up
images of sun-drenched beaches, snow-capped mountains and a cultured,
hospitable population bearing a vibrant, healthy cuisine. With its
world class museums, universities and exciting nightlife, Beirut
was often referred to as "the Paris of the Middle East."
Unfortunately, because of the war most only remember the violence
and destruction that came close to annihilating this beautiful little
country.
Lebanese food can
be found throughout the Middle East and Mediterranean no doubt spread
by the Lebanese sailors, merchants, and adventurers over the years.
Lebanese dishes across the region may be prepared or seasoned somewhat
differently. Because of this, the cuisines of the Middle East are
often sadly lumped into one homogenous category but to view the
cuisines of the Middle East as one is like proclaiming that all
cuisines of Europe are alike. Lebanese food is unique in that it
combines the sophistication and subtleties of European haute cuisines
with the exotic ingredients of the orient.
The cuisine of Lebanon
is the epitome of the Mediterranean diet. It includes an abundance
of starches, fruits, vegetables, fresh fish and seafood; animal
fats are consumed sparingly. Poultry is eaten more often than red
meat, and when red meat is eaten it is usually lamb. It also includes
copious amounts of garlic and olive oil and hardly a meal goes by
in Lebanon that does not include these two ingredients. Most often
foods are either grilled, baked or sauteed in olive oil; butter
or cream is rarely used other than in desserts. Vegetables are often
eaten raw or pickled as well as cooked. While the cuisine of Lebanon
doesn't boast an entire repertoire of sauces, it focuses on herbs,
spices and the freshness of ingredients; the assortment of dishes
and combinations are almost limitless. The meals are full of robust,
earthy flavors and much of what the Lebanese eat is dictated by
the seasons.
With the recent emphasis
on the health benefits of Mediterranean cuisine, people across the
world are discovering and embracing authentic Lebanese food. The
awareness of this ancient cuisine has also inspired professional
chefs and restaurateurs across the world to feature exciting Lebanese
items on their menus.
Situated between the
east and the west, Lebanon is a culinary and cultural crossroads.
Lebanon is located on the eastern most shore of the Mediterranean
in the Fertile Crescent, where western civilization is said to have
begun. The cuisine of this ancient land is diverse and steeped in
history; both the eastern and western influences in its cookery
are apparent. Though its mainstream popularity is relatively new,
the cuisine is not; the cuisine of Lebanon has been in the making
since pre-biblical times. The influence that Lebanon has had on
the world is totally out of proportion to its size; culinary contributions
from this tiny country have had the greatest impact on modern Middle
Eastern cuisine. Roughly encompassing an area of land the size of
Connecticut or New Jersey, the people and cuisine of Lebanon are
known throughout the world-Lebanese cuisine is a true reflection
of its welcoming culture.
Lebanon has two national
dishes, Tabouleh (Tabouli) and Kibbeh. Tabouleh is a salad made
of fresh cut parsley, minced tomatoes and onions. Mixed with cracked
wheat (bulgur wheat) and seasoned with olive oil and lemon juice.
Kibbeh is an emulsified paste of the freshest lamb and bulgur wheat.
Think of kibbeh as a sort of Lebanese pate. Originally, kibbeh was
made by pounding lamb with a jorn (mortar) and modaqqa (pestle),
then kneading in spices and soaked bulgur. To some, that are unaccustomed
to this procedure, this can be an unpleasant sight. The informative
English food writer George Lassalle, in his book Middle Eastern
Cuisine, East of Orphanides, describes kibbeh-making in the rural
villages of Lebanon as "frightening." He found the incessant
pounding and kneading of the meat and bulgur both dreary and alarming.
With the advent of the electric grinder and food processor this
ancient method of kibbeh-making has all but stopped, except in rural
mountain villages.
Kibbeh can take on
many forms, the famous being kibbeh nayee (raw kibbeh) which is
somewhat like steak tartar. Two other common forms of the food are
kibbeh bil-saneeyeh (baked kibbeh) and kibbeh mekliyeh (fried kibbeh),
both of which usually contain a filling of cooked meat, onions,
and pinenuts. Baked kibbeh is layered in a pan with its stuffing
and drizzled with olive oil, while fried kibbeh is shaped into miniature
hollowed out footballs and then stuffed before being fried. Both
of these cooked kibbeh are often served with refreshing yogurt sauce.
Despite advancements in modern technologies, kibbeh-making is still
an arduous task.
Literally not a meal
is eaten in Lebanon that does not include bread. It is seasoned
with zahtar (thyme-sumac seasoning) and olive oil for breakfast,
and utilized both as a foodstuff and eating utensil for virtually
every meal or snack. In an area of the world that is steeped in
biblical history it is easy to remember that in the Christian church
bread symbolizes the body of Christ.
The entire Mediterranean
rim is known for their anise-flavored liqueurs. In the South of
France there is Pastis, in Italy you'll find Sambuca, in Greece
Ouzo, and in Lebanon there is the ubiquitous Arak. Arak is the national
drink of Lebanon. Interestingly, these anise-flavored liqueurs came
into existence around the turn of the century as a substitute-out
of desperation actually-when the infamous beverage Absinthe became
illegal. Absinthe was a bitter, anise-flavored liqueur that was
popular with writers, painters and other freethinking types during
the mid-to-late 1800's. It was originally produced about a century
prior to treat malaria. However, the essential flavoring came from
the bitter root of the wormwood plant and was reputed to have narcotic
properties with disastrous side effects-prolonged consumption of
the beverage caused lesions on the brain. When absinthe became illegal,
manufacturers substituted anise for the wormwood, to supply the
demand, and a number of close imitations were produced including
Pernod, Sambuca and various brands of Arak and Ouzo.
In Lebanon, very rarely
are drinks served without being accompanied by food. One of the
more healthy and entertaining aspects of Lebanese cuisine is the
manner or custom in which their food is often served, it's referred
to as mezze. Similar to the tapas of Spain and antipasto of Italy,
mezze is an array of small dishes placed before the guests creating
an awe inspiring array of colours, flavors, textures and aromas.
This style of serving food is less a part of family life than it
is of entertaining. Mezze may be as simple as pickled vegetables,
hummus and bread, or it may become an entire meal consisting of
grilled marinated seafood, skewered meats, a variety of cooked and
raw salads and an arrangement of desserts.
Although simple fresh
fruits are often served towards the end of a Lebanese meal, there
is also dessert and coffee. Baklawa, is a popular Lebanese dessert.
The main difference between the Lebanese variety and its Greek cousin,
is Lebanese baklawa often contains pistachio nuts and is drizzled
with a rose-water syrup, the Greek variety usually contains walnuts
and honey.This exquisite flavoured pastry has been made in Lebanon
for thousands of years, its ancestor being a Phoenician dish consisting
of dried fruit and nuts sandwiched between two layers of pastry
and baked in an oven. Bakalwa was undoubtedly spread west across
the mediterranean and found its way to Greece by Phoenician sailors
and merchants. In the 9th century BC, the Assyrians invaded Lebanon
and spread Baklawa east across their empire which centred in west
Asia, developing around the city of Ashur, or Assur, on the upper
Tigris River and south of the later capital, Nineveh. As a result
Baklawa found its way to most Middle Eastern cities.
Coffee is a big deal
in Lebanon. It is served throughout the day, at home and in the
public cafes. Lebanese coffee is strong, thick and often flavored
with cardamom. It is also usually heavily sweetened. When guests
arrive at one's home, they are invariably persuaded to stay for
a coffee, no matter how short their visit.
The food of Lebanon
is a celebration of life; it is fresh, flavourful, diverse and invigorating.
The genius of it is in its complex simplicity, and that the food
is a product of both the earth and the sea. There is a natural bond
that all of the Mediterranean cuisines share, from the tip of Spain
to the Levant as the same waters equally kiss the countries of the
Mediterranean, waters that the Phoenicians of old sailed and spread
Lebanese culture and cuisine and left their permanent mark through
their colonies. The legendary journeys of the Phoenicians not only
spread the best of Lebanon across the seas but also brought back
home the best of the cultures they encountered. Despite similarities
of Mediterranean foods, the cuisine of Lebanon is without doubt
in a class of its own.
Lebanese
Wine
While one may not
think of Lebanon as a particularly well-known wine region, Lebanon
is one of the oldest, if not the oldest wine producing regions of
the world.
Famed for its majesric
cedars and mountains, Lebanon, the blessed land of Canaan surrounded
by eternal snows, has been a centre of wine making since the dawn
of time. On its very land, Noah, the first of all wine-growers,
endowed mankind with a valuable discovery; wine, which he loved
himself up to the point of rapture. From there, this discovery spread
to Babylon and Upper Egypt, where Frescoes show that wine was known
from remotest Antiquity. Lebanon's fertile soils were thus famous
for their wines in ancient times, and were highly regarded in Greece,
Anatolia and above all in Israel, which maintained close commercial
ties with the Phoenicians. Phoenician merchants shipped rich and
sweet Lebanese wines in amphoras to all four corners of the Mediterranean,
to be drunk by the rich citizens of Athens, Carthage and Rome. Lebanon
therefore gets credit for the propagation of wine growing, through
its Phoenician ancestors around the Mediterranean, along with the
colour purple and the alphabet.
During the Greek-Roman
period, the divine beverage was, an object of worship. Bacchus-Dionysos
entered the Pantheon and Baalbeck's loveliest temple was dedicated
to him. And so, from the darkest of ages, the mysterious course
of history brings us always back to this privileged spot, where
the shed blood of the vine was gathered for the first time. After
the fall of Rome, Christianity took over the tradition. It was actually
in Lebanon that Christ changed water into wine, thus accomplishing
his first miracle at the wedding of Cana. Then came the Byzantine
Empire which extended wine-growing from the fertile Bekaa throughout
the Middle East for the making of sacramental wine. Since then,
every monastery is bordered by a grove where the vine is raised
as a noble plant. Many of today's reputed vintage are still grown
in the neighbourhood of monasteries.
Wine is made across
Lebanon in numerous wineries. From the Bekaa Valley, for example,
you'll find Ksara, Chateau Kefraya and Massaya from the Tanail estate
and from the Mount Lebanon region is Chateau Fakra and Chateau Musar.
The Ksara estate,
so named because it was the site of a Frankish kasar, or fortress,
at the time of the Crusades. The property was acquired by the Jesuit
Fathers in 1857 when it was already famed as a vineyard and they
perpetuated the tradition of winemaking. In particular, they pioneered
the introduction of high-quality vines in Lebanon. New varieties,
enjoying the exceptional climatic conditions in the Bekaa, were
cultivated at Ksara's 20 hectares (50 acres) and later at Tanail,
an estate of 240 hectares (600 acres) which also belonged to the
Jesuit Fathers and which sent all its grapes to Ksara's cellars.
Ksara's natural wine
cellar is a grotto discovered by the Romans who consolidated part
of the vault and dug several narrow tunnels from the cave into the
surrounding chalk. These tunnels were enlarged to their present
size during world war I when the Jesuit Fathers sought to alleviate
famine in Lebanon by creating employment. One hundred men toiled
with picks and shovels for four years to complete an underground
network of tunnels stretching for almost two kilometers (about 2,000
yards).The temperature in the tunnels is ideal for wine, varying
throughout the year from 11 to 13?C. Ksara came into the hands of
its present owners when the Jesuit Fathers decided to sell the estate
in conformity with the directives of the Vatican II synod.
Ksara's estate is
planted with a wide variety of grape vines, of which the most important
are Cabernet-Sauvignon, Syrah, Semillon, Grenache, Sauvignon-Blanc,
Cinsault, and Merlot. Ksara's wine has been described as robust
dry and fruity, with a strong personality, the numerous international
awards won by this great estate further confirm the quality of this
wine.
Situated in the heart
of Lebanon, in the Bekaa valley, Château Kefraya expands its
300 hectares domain to the foothills of the Mount Lebanon, 20 km
to the south of the city of Chtaura. Both the vineyard, planted
in a succession of terraces and hills having very often abrupt slopes,
at an altitude of 950 to 1100 meters on clayey, limy and stony soils,
together with an exceptional sun lighting six to seven months
a year without any precipitation and the winery, located
in the middle of the domain, fitted with a highly sophisticated
equipment allowing the manually gathered grapes to be conveyed,
picked off from the bunch, vinified and pressured very carefully,
allowed the elaboration of a special and authentic wine, personal
to Château Kefraya. This estate has received great praise
from wine critics the world over, wine magazines such as, The wine
advocate, Decanter, Civart 1995, and the Revue Le Paysan Francais,
have all praised Kefraya as a truly great wine. Carignan, Syrah,
Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Clairette, Boubounlenc
and Chardonnay are used in the production of this internationally
renowned wine.
Massaya is a French-Lebanese
collaboration whose estate is at Tanail. The partnership brought
together Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, co-proprietor of Chateau
Angelus with Dominique Hébrard, former co-proprietor of Chateau
Cheval Blanc and Daniel Brunier, co-proprietor at Le Vieux Telegraph.
This prestigious Franco-Lebanese collaboration has united great
men of wine and brought into being its first vintage in 1999.
Chateau Fakra is located
near Kfardebian, land of springs, is a village located in the very
heart of Mount Lebanon, varying in altitude from 1000 to 2826 m.
Green mountainsides, enormous rocky blocks, woodlands of oak, walnut,
and pine, orchards of apple and mulberry trees, vineyards and streams
with fresh and limpid water, altogether constitute the most picturesque
area and one of the main agricultural villages in Lebanon. Then,
following a winding road, we reach the millenary "Temples of
Fakra" where for thousands of years, from the Phoenician times,
to the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and up till modern times , the
gods of love and wine were venerated.
Caves Naked is a small
winery that started in 1923, with the famous As-Samir Arak, during
the French mandate from 1921 to 1934, while some French garrisons
where stationed in the Bekaa, Mr. Youssef Nakad tried his hand at
wine, and as they say the rest is history.
Nakad outsources all
it's grapes from vine growers in the Bekaa, located in Jdita, a
residential area, limiting it's growth potential tremendously, considering
the age of this estate it is not faring well, it is in need of new
investors and spacious land. Mr. Salim Nakad uses a blend of Cinsault
and Carignant for his red wines, as for the white he uses Ugniblanc
and Muscat.
Clos St Thomas is
located in Kab Elias, where the hills of Mount Lebanon meets the
plain, and is a newly established winery. Clos St Thomas was established
by Said Touma, with his long family tradition of 100 years in wine
making. Though still in it's infancy, they produce 175 thousand
bottles, of which 80 percent are exported to Europe, and North America.
Chateau Musar which
produces an outstanding, fine, full-bodied red that would put up
a very good fight against the best of the French was founded in
1930 by Gaston Hochar in an 18th century castle, is located in Ghazir,
15 miles north of Beirut in Mount Lebanon. Following an expansion
of the cellar in the late 1950's, Chateau Musar is able to store
more than one million bottles of wine. A family concern, Chateau
Musar is owned by Gaston Hochar's two sons, Serge and Ronald. The
vineyards of Chateau Musar are located at an altitude of over 3,000
feet (1,000 meters) in the Bekaa Valley where the vines are sheltered
by the surrounding mountains running parallel to the Mediterranean
coast. The Bekaa Valley is almost frost and disease free, with long
mild summers, rainy winters, and an average temperature of 25 degrees
Celsius. The vineyards of Chateau Musar cover 130 hectares, produce
a limited yield of about 25 hl/ha, resulting in approximately 20,000
cases of the "Chateau Musar" wine, and a production of
different other wines.
Chateau Musar attained
international notoriety during the wine fair of Bristol in England
in 1979, where a specialized press named it the "find of the
fair". Following this event, Chateau Musar's reputation reconfirmed
itself in most other European countries, as well as in the United
States, Canada, and in some Asian Countries. Decanter Magazine paid
tribute to Serge Hochar's achievements by nominating him "Decanter
Man of the Year" in 1984. During the war years in Lebanon,
Chateau Musar managed to consistently produce high quality wine,
leading the "Wine Spectator" magazine to use headlines
such as: "Chateau Musar makes great, ageworthy reds amid the
chaos of Lebanon's war". Chateau musar exports more than 90%
of its total annual production throughout the world.
Musar is the first
Lebanese winery to become a member of the OIV (Office International
de la Vigne et du Vin). These wines are the spear head of the Lebanese
wine industry, they set it on the international stage of quality
vintages. Ksara, Kefraya, and Musar have set the pace for many other
wineries in the country.
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